Showing posts with label locavore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label locavore. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

A gathering of egos, er, chefs


The Burger Bash was one of the events at the South Beach Wine
and Food Festival held last weekend in Miami Beach
Gustavo Caballero / Getty Images
Time magazine isn't the must-read that it was in my youth, but occasionally they run an article that hits home. Here are excerpts from an article by Josh Ozersky published today that you can read HERE.


Go to the  official site of the South Beach Wine and Food Festival (SOBE) held this past weekend, and you'll see the marks of wild success. Nearly every event is sold out. The highbrow events are sold out, the populist events are sold out. The events that boast Guy Fieri and Giada De Laurentiis are sold out, the Alain Ducasse tribute dinner is sold out. 
What started as a fun vacation 10 years ago is now a supercluster of celebrity chefs, Food Network stars, Bal Harbour grandees, trophy wives, cooking demos, pounding techno music, amazing dishes, not-so-amazing dishes and hungry, excited foodies who collectively generated a deafening volume of Twitter static. There are three-star Michelin generalissimos and TV hosts who might not be able to pick one other out of a police lineup. SOBE is the place where the food world most visibly intersects with the country as a whole.
The writer goes on to say that the fringe elements of the American food experience are not represented: not the high-end new chefs or the locavore, all-natural proponents.
What happens in modernist restaurants and New Naturalist bistros is a vision of American food in its most idealized, uncompromised form. It's essentially culinary couture, the restaurant world's equivalent of the high-concept runway shows in Paris and Milan. The ready-to-wear version will show up soon enough in Cincinnati; Spokane, Wash.; and, eventually, South Beach.
If you can eat it in America and there's no trace of it at SOBE, there will be eventually. The truth is that SOBE and festivals that emulate it need the chefs that don't show up every bit as much as it needs the ones that do. The mainstream may be wide, but it can't be stagnant. 
Ozersky is a James Beard Award-winning food writer and the author of "The Hamburger: A History." 
Watch TIME's video "How Top Chefs Get You to Eat Your Vegetables."

Wednesday, December 2, 2009

Eating locally gains support

The Nation's Restaurant News polled a number of chefs on what they thought were trends in the industry, and the good news is that many of them cited the increased use of local produce, meats and seafood as the top two trends. The other 18 top trends:

3. Sustainability
4. Bite-size/mini desserts
5. Locally produced wine and beer
6. Nutritionally balanced children's dishes
7. Half-portions/smaller portion for a smaller price
8. Farm/estate-branded ingredients
9. Gluten-free/food allergy conscious
10. Sustainable seafood
11. Superfruits (e.g. acai, goji berry, mangosteen, purslane)
12. Organic produce
13. Culinary cocktails (e.g. savory, fresh ingredients)
14. Micro-distilled/artisan liquor
15. Nutrition/health
16. Simplicity/back to basics
17. Regional ethnic cuisine
18. Non-traditional fish (e.g. branzino, Arctic char, barramundi)
19. Newly fabricated cuts of meat (e.g. Denver steak, pork flat iron, Petite Tender)
20. Fruit/vegetable children's side items
Source: The National Restaurant Association's What's Hot in 2010 chef survey

I'm not too wild about the newly fabricated cuts of meat - I like to know what part of the animal I'm eating, not some marketer's idea of what will sell me on eating it - but bring on more Arctic char! It's delicious.

Monday, June 1, 2009

C'ville local food movement meeting

Is anyone going to this? I'm interested:

Sustaining the Local Food Movement - A Left of Center discussion
WHENTuesday, June 2, 2009, 7 – 8:30pm
WHERERapture -- on the Downtown Mall
303 E. Main Street
Charlottesville, VA
EVENT TYPEPublic Meeting
NOTE

Left of Center is holding a discussion on the local food movement.

Is the local food movement a passing fad for the wealthy, or is it possible that it can permanently alter how we all eat, work, and live? How do we expand it beyond weekly sales in parking lots to something accessible to—and affordable by—everybody?

Kate Collier, an owner of Feast! and Founding Director of the Local Food Hub, and Melissa Wiley, Director of the Piedmont Environmental Council’s Buy Fresh Buy Local program, will speak about the direction that the movement needs to take in order to overcome these hurdles. They’ll address how local food initiatives can succeed in having a lasting impact on preserving open farmland, supporting endangered small family farm businesses, and promoting agricultural diversity and sustainable environmental practices.

Come on out, join some friends for a beer and join the discussion.

C’ville Market / Cavalier Produce, Horse & Buggy Produce and Integral Yoga Natural Foods are co-sponsoring this event.

Left of Center is a Charlottesville, Virginia group of mostly twenty- and thirty-something local Democrats.

LINKwww.leftofcentercville.org

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Great local foods

Earth Day dinner at St. Paul's was a resounding success; we had more than a 100 people, and more than enough dishes to feed everyone. And the food was super! The quiches and gratins, made from local eggs, milk and butter were especially yummy, and the local beef and chicken dishes were incredibly succulent as well. 

Here was my dish; if any of the other cooks pass along their recipes, I'll include them as well.

Sirloin Tip Roast  (serves 10 -12)

Ingredients

1 3-pound roast (donated by Kelli Olson from Horse & Buggy, Harrisonburg)

Two onions, peeled and cut in half horizontally

Instructions

Season overnight with salt, rosemary and pepper

Heat oven to 450 degrees; put roast in oiled pan with room on the sides, on top of the onion halves.

Check in 30 minutes to make sure it’s above 115 degrees; take out when it reaches 130 degrees and let sit for 15 minutes, then slice. Serve with following sauce:

Mustard sauce

Ingredients

1 cup beef soup-bone broth

½ cup red wine (Kluge winery)

1 teaspoon dried crushed rosemary (from Jane Rotch's garden) or thyme

2 tablespoons hot mustard (locally made by Betsy Respess)

Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Pour off fat from roasting pan. Heat remaining drippings with broth, wine, herbs. Reduce until almost syrup. Whisk in mustard and taste for salt and pepper.

Carve meat in thin slices across the grain. Pour sauce over and serve.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Earth Day - tomorrow!

I remember my first Earth Day celebration. I was in college and we thought our parents had screwed up the planet beyond repair and we needed to do something about it. I think a lot of my friends felt the same way. We played nonviolent, cooperative games and talked about how to make this world a better place. 

One of my favorite restaurants in Sacramento was founded on Earth Day, under a neon sign for Tower Records that the owners restored. They featured dishes from around the world, using fresh ingredients. It's still going strong, and the little garden they planted in front of the place is now a lush jungle that makes dining in the urban setting a grand experience.

Tomorrow, we will honor the Earth at St. Paul's with a dinner featuring more than a dozen dishes prepared with local ingredients by local cooks. We hope we have a big turnout, since our youth group will be auctioning off really splendid items (including some vacation cabin stays) to help them on their way to help others this summer. Please come for this free dinner, a gift for those who care and share. We're hoping to attract around a hundred people.

If I don't have the time to post tomorrow, please check back in on Thursday to see what delicious dishes we made from local ingredients and where you can find them, too.

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Snippets and snipes

I thought today I’d make a note of recent food news and opinion from around the nation.

From today’s Detroit Free Press editorial page:
If those carrots you bought at the local supermarket the other day are looking a little tired, it isn't their fault. Their journey to your refrigerator was likely an arduous one - typically in excess of 1,800 miles.
That broccoli hiding under the carrots likely traveled as far - even if, like most Americans, you live within a few dozen miles of a broccoli farmer. No wonder it's looking a little brown.
It wasn't always this way. As recently as the 1950s, most of what Michiganders ate was produced or raised close to their homes. The state's 151,000 farms sold most of what they grew or raised to local food outlets, selling only the excess to other states and countries.
Today, Michigan has only a third as many farms - and most of what they produce ends up in freezers or pantries far from the Great Lakes State.
Michiganders still consume huge quantities of fresh produce themselves. But the great majority of those fruits and vegetables are imported from other states and countries.
Like most arrangements that seem absurd on their face, this one follows a certain economic logic.
The big supermarket chains that distribute most of the nation's fresh produce are partial to drier climate varieties that travel well.
Michigan growers typically do better selling the state's succulent fruits and vegetables to food processing companies that freeze, dehydrate or can them for distribution worldwide.
But Michiganders concerned about food safety and the diminished nutritional value of processed foods, plus the high monetary and environmental costs of shipping food across vast distances, are hungry for fruits, vegetables, meat and dairy goods produced closer to where they live -- and farmers, distributors and retailers are all responding.
Now it's up to policymakers to promote a trend that promises enormous benefits to Michigan's health, environment and economic vitality.

From Reuters news service: Many U.S. food handlers do not maintain proper records to track products such as milk and oatmeal, making it hard to identify the source of a food-borne outbreak, a government investigator said on Thursday.
A review by the inspector general's office in the Health and Human Services Department found 59 percent of foodmakers, transporters, warehouses, retailers and other facilities in the study failed to meet requirements to keep records about sources, recipients and transporters of food.
A quarter of the firms were unaware they were required to do so by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), according to the review, which was based on a traceback test of 40 products, including milk, oatmeal and leafy vegetables.
The traceback test found in most cases the facility that "likely" handled the product was identified. Five items were traced throughout the entire supply chain, while investigators had trouble identifying who handled four of the products.
The Bioterrorism Act of 2002 requires produce processors and distributors to keep track of where food goes and has arrived from, enabling the FDA to use the records to track a product when there is a serious health threat.
Restaurants and farms are not covered by this requirement.
The pitfalls of the system were exposed last year when health officials took months to find the source of a salmonella outbreak. After first pointing to tomatoes as the source, the strain was later identified as coming from Mexican peppers.
The FDA defended that investigation, saying the process was delayed by poor record-keeping and delays checking paperwork. But critics called for a national tracking system.
"Traceability today is simply not good enough," said Rep. Rosa DeLauro, chairwoman of the House Appropriations subcommittee that oversees the FDA.
"It's inconsistent, unreliable and these findings confirm, what many in Congress already believe: That we need to do better," said DeLauro, who has introduced a bill that would improve food supply tracking.
Requiring a firm that handles a food product to maintain records of every facility or farm that handled the product and allowing the FDA to request a firm's record any time are among recommendations to strengthen the system.

From the Los Angeles Times: Adding to the chorus seeking an overhaul of the nation's food safety system, a report issued Wednesday called on the Obama administration to put someone in charge of safeguarding the food supply and to create a Food Safety Administration.
The food safety system is "plagued with problems," said Jeffrey Levi, executive director of Trust for America's Health, which released the report in conjunction with the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation.
"We are way overdue for a makeover," said Michelle Larkin, director of the foundation's Public Health Team. "It costs us around $44 billion annually in medical care and lost productivity, so the stakes are really high."
Michael Taylor, a former FDA deputy and a professor at the George Washington University School of Public Health and Health Services, said obsolete laws focus on reacting to problems rather than preventing them, and the agency is underfunded. Also, he said, there is no unified system for inspection, enforcement and notifying the public of dangers.

From the Associated Press: Drug industry advocates are quietly allying with some of their longtime critics pushing to split the Food and Drug Administration into two agencies, one for food safety and one for medical products.
President Barack Obama bolstered hopes for a breakup last Saturday when he named two public health specialists to the agency's top positions and appointed an advisory group to reassess the nation's decades-old food safety laws.
Drug executives see a chance to speed up drug approvals that have lagged amid a drought of new products, provided their regulator is no longer distracted by high-profile food-safety breakdowns.
"Every CEO that I know in health care is in favor of this, but none that value their share prices will go on the record for fear of retribution from the FDA," said Steve Brozak, president of WBB Securities, an investment brokerage focused on drug and biotech companies.
While FDA's food and drug staffs are separate, Brozak and others believe the public lashings over food outbreaks have made senior officials even more risk-averse on drug approvals.

Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Gourmet gulch

Ruth Reichl, editor of Gourmet magazine, wants a high-profile chef in the White House who cooks delicious local food. That may be a fine sentiment for 6 to 8 months out of the year, but has she SEEN what's growing around DC at the moment? If it's local, and a vegetable, it's probably not fresh. That's not to say we shouldn't all strive for local first, but should it be a White House policy issue? I think not.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Food trends

Top 10 Food Trends for 2009, according to the Food Channel:

1. Home on the Range - Downsized economy breeds new generation of home
chefs, more food-savvy than their predecessors
2. Foodie 2.0 - Growth of virtual and non-virtual food communities
3. Going, Going Green - Kitchens go eco-conscious
4. Living La Vida Locavore - Eating locally and seasonally, both at home
and in restaurants
5. TMI? - Is seeing the calorie count on the menu Too Much Information, or will it lead to healthier choices?
6. FrankenFood - The rise of bioengineering and genetically modified
food; the next evolution of last year's Functional Food trend
7. Food Philanthropy - Individuals and companies address world hunger
8. Food Insecurity - The call for tighter food controls, after the
tomato and jalapeño scares of 2008
9. Brewing Business - Striking a balance when cost is an issue; the
divide widens between the exotic and day-to-day food needs
10. Where in the World ... is the next flavor trend coming from? It's
all about globalization and variety